Nemaste Nepal - Top of the World

We entered Nepal on November 21st almost walking by the border without a Visa. The western border of Nepal is a relaxed dirt road along a canal with migrating Indians, Nepalese and various assorted farm animals walking to and fro, country to country. Nepal is in the middle of a cease fire with Maoist rebels which will be ending shortly but may be extended with talks from both sides. December 2nd there is a large manifestation being organized to demand democracy at the King's Palace. They are expecting upwards of 1 million citizens. This could be the beginning of a new era here in Nepal. There has been increased pressure from the US and UN demanding the King to listen to the Parliament, the Maoist movement and the people. There are many military checkpoints that we are allowed to pass freely on our bicycles. All buses and other transportation is stopped and searched at each chekpoint for rebel activity.

The locals are friendly and the children ring out "bye bye" and wave very excitedly as we pass them. In the western region there is not much food variety for us and our ferocious apetites. We have been living on biscuits, rice, dal, curried potato/cauliflower and a mustard green of some sort almost EVERY DAY! We decided to spend a couple nights in one of the National Parks named the Royal Bardia. It was amazing, we saw rhinos, leopards, two varities of deer (tiger food) but no tigers. The guide has never seen leopards in his 13 years in the park so we were very lucky to see these predatory cats. We could smell the scent of Tiger pee and saw fresh scratch marks on the side of the trail travelling to the next lookout tower. We then heard an Elephant roar to warn that there was a tiger in the immediate vicinity. We then met up with the Elephant that made our guide turn and almost run for a tree until he looked again and noticed it was domesticated. Our guide was armed with a bamboo stick and his wits. What an exciting day, seeing these large mamals roaming in there natural habitat and not in some zoo. It was $25 dollars for two days and a Jungle trek with lodging and 3 square Cycle tourist sized meals. What a deal!!!

The last few days we started to make our ascent from the southern plains of Nepal into Pokhara. We stopped in the city of Butwal a major hub in Nepal where we finally had a selection of food other than the Nepalese standard (good food but you can only each so much of it). We saw the mountains to the north as we prepared our tummies for the hills ahead. All I can say is we spent almost half our time off of the bike seat stopping to take pictures of utterly breathtaking views of valleys, moutains, forest and river. We arrived in Pokhara on the 29th. Just a few kilometers north of Pokhara is Annapurna the 9th highest mountain in the world WOW!!! (Picture of Annapurna above)

Kathmandu here we come, lets hope the King will do the right thing and listen to his subjects! The next few days will prove to be very interesting as we will be in the heart of the matter.

Stev-0

Chai, Bickies and Numbers

After spending some time in McLeod Ganj we headed east through the mountains just south of the Himalyans called the Shiwalik range. What an inspiring ride after being spiritually lifted through these intense mountains. The population was much more sparce through the mountains and the air was clean. To the south you could see the haze of pollution which makes for good photos at sun set. There is always a good and a bad for everything.

We picked up another rider to make our bike posse more international. Before heading into Dharmsala we stopped to take some photos of a valley. I saw a man passed out on a small tea hut. I looked again and noticed a fully loaded bicycle. He was also experiencing the after affects (stomach problems) from Lahorrible Pakistan. Alex from Switzerland has joined our ride towards Katmandu Nepal. We have nick named him the Terminator for his deep Arnold-esque Austrian English accent.

We made our way through some mountain villages that made our quads scream and jaws drop. Monkeys were scattered throughout the mountains hanging out on the sides of the roads grooming each other and the mothers carrying their young around. They are amazing animals to watch, they are so graceful playing in the trees. We stayed in the provincial capital Shimla for an extra day. This beautiful city was perched in the foothills of the Shiwalik Range at about 2205m above sea level. As much of a pain the mountain climbs can be there is always breathtaking downhill. I love watching the choreography when we are following each other down the hills picking our lines around the curves, cutting and weaving down the passes.

Today we are at the head of the Ganga river in a town called Rishikesh. At the base of the Ganges the total length is about 2,510 km. It is one of the densest human population belts on earth. We are close to the source which flows from a glacier in the Himalayas. The water is clean here and we are going to take a quick dip in the cold waters. Rishikesh is named the Yoga capital of the world. There are many places to learn and teach many different styles of Yoga, massage and meditation. Cows and monkeys are everywhere here. If you have never tried yoga, I highly recommend it. I was practicing a few months before I left and I never felt so good after the class, all my stress was gone and I felt I was walking on air.

We should be in Nepal climbing back into the mountains in 3 or 4 days. I can't wait for more fresh air and watching more wildlife. There are leopards and other large mammals still living in harmony with the eco systems that have been untouched by man. We are headed towards some national parks in India and Nepal.

India is an amazing place and I will definitely be coming back to spend some time in the mountains for a retreat if I ever feel spiritually, mentally or physically depleted. There is an amazing blend of Hindu, Muslim, Sikh, Buddhist and many other eastern religions here. It is truly a spiritually uplifting place. Accommodations are $2 to $5 a night, you can eat like a calorie crazed cyclist spending $3 for a huge spread of amazing Indian food and spend $7 for a full hour body massage. Try doing that in Canada for under $20. Words can't describe it, you have to experience this amazing place for yourself.

Until the next post.
Steve

India Alas!!

Goodbye Pakistan hello India. 16 countries, 13,000km's, unwanted cultures in our sensitive North American tummies and we're still pushin' pedal!

What a relief it is to get out of Pakistan. My intention is not offend Pakistani's as Pakistan is geographically stunning and the people are very hospitable and enjoyable hosts. It is just a relief to be in India where women can be women (not possessions where they rarely leave the house) and the people are used to seeing tourists. Pakistan is the most oppressive country we've been in so far.

We (Steve, Luke and I) are in Dharamshala beside the Himilaya's now. This is where the exiled Tibetan government lives along with the Dalai Lama. There are a few Buddhist monks in the internet cafe right now. It is funny seeing monks on cell phones and internet. The mountains are frickin massive here. The lowest one is 4050m. We climbed a 10km killer hill to get up here. All in all I think we climbed around 2000m of roller coaster scenic mountain scape. We rode well into the darkness of the night. No matter though as there are people everywhere in India. Every 5 km there is a city, town or village. Crowded but not overwhelming like Pakistan. Man is Pakistan a mess. Another story for another time. It is exciting that there is women around you can talk to without fearing reprecussions from small minded, insecure, very religious muslim men that will go straight to hell, do not pass go,(if there is a judgement day) for their treament of women. This is my experience and opinion from travelling through the south of Pakistan and not seeing any women at all. The Pakistani's are very nice people otherwise. That's my rant for this post.

After leaving Islamabad we bused back to Lahorrible(inside joke concerning severe air and noise pollution along with diahrea and stomach ailments that seem to plague foreigners) with double entry visa's for India at the cost of 3300 rupees.($85 canuck buck) We will be heading through the Himilaya's and into Kathmandu for the next month or so. Exciting stuff. We stayed in Lahore for another night and did a little sightseeing and bike cleaning before leaving Bobby's house for the Indian border. Thanks for the hospitality Bobby and Shumella!

We had our most thorough search at the Indian border crossing where they opened our bags and pulled out a few things. Nothing overly invasive. Just a quick check for the sake of procedure then we headed for the border again to see the infamous closing of the border. Bleachers lined the border where hundreds of people watched the soldiers march to the gates where the Indian soldiers taunted the Pakistani soldiers and vice versa. Chanting about Hindustan filled the air and the soldiers marched up and down with colourful outfits in a manner reminiscent of Monty Python's ministry of silly walks. Quite comical.

We cycled on to Amritsar and visited the Golden Temple. Astounded by the beauty of this wonder we walked around snapping pictures and marvelled at the holiest site in the Sikh religion.

After arguing about cold eggs and poor service at our hotel, we rode a comfortable 110km's to Pathankot, where we were treated to the most visually stunning fireworks display I've ever seen. Literally hundreds of thousands of fireworks went off simultaneously for over 6 hours in celebration of Diwali. The equivalent of Christmas for the Indian people. We lit off a few ladyfingers of our own and drank a little whisky on the rooftop of the hotel whilst taking in a fireworks display that could blow up a small country.

That's what's happening in the land of two hammers and one Kiwi. Lots of photo's and stories that are too much for this website will come when we return!

A little advice for anyone coming out this way. Do not, I repeat do not drink the water or eat the salad. Luke is suffering again from what we believe is a water problem. Unless your stomach is made of cast iron and you have bowels of titanium one should avoid road side restaurants and drinking water! Yikes!